The good thing about travelling at this time of year is that it is cool. In fact some in the group had had trouble the night before because it was cold. Despite extra blankets they had suffered. I was fine as I had set off in all my cold weather clothes in case I was stuck at the airport. The people from Oz had left in their summer clothes not anticipating how cold it would be at night. During the day, in the sun, the temperature is in the low 20s centigrade but after dark dropped well below 10 centigrade. I found the fleece that I had worn to Manchester Airport was to become really useful. As the journey went on the fog cleared and it became quite warm.
The coach trip which took us into rural Rajastan for the first time was really interesting to me. We saw lots of fertile looking fields full of young wheat, yellow flowering mustard, maize and small amounts of rice. Yaddu said that this was not a good rice growing area so people just grew it for family use. The corn stooks by the side of the road covered the gleanings saved after the corn harvest which were stored under the conical thatch and then fed to the cows. There were also lots of cow pat factories. This seemed to be womens' work. The cow manure is collected and when wet shaped into discs which are slapped onto any available flat surface and left to dry.
They are then stacked ready to be used as fuel. Some of the stacks were quite artisically arranged conical towers.
We arrived at our hotel the Grand Casa and dropped off our bags. Then around the corner for lunch. The food was South Indian and I had Uttapam which is a sort of rice and lentil pancake containing coriander, onion and chopped pepper and sprinkled with spices. Very nice!
We were then off to the Taj. First in a mini-bus and then in an electric vehicle as no polluting traffic is allowed near. We used a small hotel very near the Eastern Gate as a bag drop and then through security, men one side, women the other and we were in. By this time it was 13.00 and the place was packed as this is the Christmas holiday period for Indians too. This was the disadvantage but the advantage was that for the time of year the light was very good and we got good photos. We met another tour group later who were there early and it was very quiet but difficult to get good photos as it was so misty. Swings and roundabouts-and it was nice to be in the sun.
I was quite moved. It really is very beautiful. We slowly made our way towards the Taj. I stopped at the famous 'Diana bench' where many Indian families were having their photos taken. I persuaded one of them to take my photo. 
When I got up onto the main forecourt I put my shoe covers on. Many people were taking their shoes off as is done at a mosque. A large queue had formed and we slowly snaked our way around the entrance the the mausoleum. On the warm platform the smell of cheesy feet became stronger. A smell I shall always associate with the Taj!
There was more security at the entrance and we filed in past large signs saying no photographs. Once inside there was a thunderstorm of flashes as people started photographing. People surged forward to see the tombs of Mumtaz and her devoted husband Shah Jahan, just to her left. We all circled around the central area looking at the intricate stonework in the gloom. I guiltily succumbed in the end a took a few photos but without flash.
Once outside I had a gentle stroll around the outside of the mausoleum taking in the beautiful intricacy of the stonework. I then strolled through the quiet, green gardens listening to the birds chattering in the trees and watching the gardeners tidying up and putting greenery onto a bullock cart. I started to take a photo and before I knew it I was holding the cow halter and the gardener took my photo... for 10 rupees.
We then met up with our guide and went up to the Red Fort of Agra. This was the first of the Mughal Palaces we were to see. This one had a wall around the outside and then a series of courtyards and areas for public and private audience. There are also palaces for the various royal princesses, concubines etc.
The thing that stayed in my mind apart from the beautiful stonework, fantastic views across the Yamuna River to the Taj as it was gradually enveloped in the evening mist, was the sense of shame at the damage done by the British by attacking and looting this palace. They were not the only ones to do this but that did not make me feel any better.
We then set off to a restaurant for another delicious Indian meal. Again I went for the chicken tikka and had mixed vegetables as well as another naan all washed down with Kingfisher beer. Then it was back to the hotel. A guide from the hotel walked me around to the ATM. What a relief, I has become desperate for cash. Then off to bed for some much needed sleep after a long but memorable day.
